THE BEST WAY TO CARE FOR  YOUR TEAK


Exterior Teak trim – Cap Rails, Toe Rails,
Transoms

If there’s old varnish, strip first with chemical stripper. Now sand completely smooth.  See instructions for oiling.  Finish with 220 Grit. Vacuum thoroughly.  Wipe down with a rag soaked with mineral spirits.  Mask all edges. Plan 3 maskings during a full 8 coat application (to get clean edges).
Sealer Note:  Follow directions for oiling interior teak for sealing teak—start with 2 coats oil, finish 3rd coat and sand in oil with paste, etc. to fill grain (see p.3 for oil steps one-five.  Now, USE FOAM BRUSHES.  FILTER VARNISH INTO A PAPER CONTAINER. Thin first coat 15 % with mineral spirits. Apply against the grain until the brush is almost dry then lightly brush with the grain.
2. Sand lightly 220- just enough to scratch the surface and see where you’re going with the second coat.
3. Second coat thin 10%.  Applied as in step 1.
4. Sand with 220
5. Apply third coat with a capful of brushing liquid per 8 ounces as weather dictates.
6. Sand w/ 220.
7. Apply 4th coat full strength w/ brushing liquid as necessary for weather.
8. Sand heavily with 220 to plane down ridges built up (use sanding pad, or electric sander carefully.)  Do not break through the seal now created, though.
9. 5th- 8th coats like 4th except sand with 320 by hand only- moderated, but fine scratch evident.
10. 9th and 10th coats optional.  First 3 varnish coats can be applied on successive days- sanding the day after application.  Each coat thereafter needs a full day of curing between coats (one day off before sanding.)  Each of last 3 coats 2 day between sanding for proper curing.



VARNISHING TO KEEP FINISH BRIGHT
TEAK

If there’s old varnish, strip first with chemical stripper. Sand completely smooth.  See instructions for oiling.  Finish with 220 Grit.  Vacuum thoroughly.  Wipe down with a rag soaked with mineral spirits.  Mask all edges.  Plan for at least 3 maskings during a full 8 coat application. (to get clean edges.)
1. Sealer Note:  Follow directions for oiling interior teak for sealing teak—start with 2 coats oil, finish 3rd coat and sand in oil with paste, etc. to fill grain (careful here not to destroy the grain). Now, USE FOAM BRUSHES. FILTER VARNISH INTO A PAPER CONTAINER.
2. Thin first coat 15 % with mineral spirits. Apply against the grain until the brush is almost dry then lightly brush with the grain.
3. Sand lightly 220- just enough to scratch the surface and see where you’re going with the second coat.
4. Second coat thin 10%.  Applied as in step 1.
5. Sand with 22
6. Apply third coat with a capful of brushing liquid per 8 ounces as weather dictates.
7. Sand w/ 220.
8. Apply 4th coat full strength but add brushing liquid as necessary for weather.
9. Sand heavily with 220 to plane down ridges built up (use sanding pad, or electric sander carefully.)  Do not break through the seal now created, though. or you will have to start all over.
10. 5th- 8th coats like 4th except sand with 320 by hand only- moderated, but fine scratch evident.
11.9th and 10th coats optional.  First 3 varnish coats can be applied on successive days- sanding the day after application.  Each coat thereafter needs a full day of curing between coats (one day off before sanding.)  Each of last 3 coats will need 2 days between sanding for proper curing.



REPAIRS TO TEAK

NOTE: (If the damage is to a transom, get the boat out of the water right away. Bill or gaff holes will allow water intrusion through the varnish coats. This will permanently discolor the teak, creating a much larger repair and allow water into the boat substructure.)  This is often a preliminary step to refreshing. If the damage is caught early (no yellowing, peeling) mask off sand lightly and squish varnish into the joint to reestablish the seal. 

Do in several coats before final refresher coats.  If finish is yellow/blistering.  Use a sharp, hook scraper and strip off.  If necessary, re-bleach dark spots with teak wonder.  Allow to dry thoroughly.  Use 120-150 paper follow with 220.  Re-seal as before and repeat all 8 coats build up; but now make a jet speed version of regular varnish by diluting with 25% of companion, fast drying solvent for 2 coats; 4 hours a part; then use regular procedure with one coat per day, 220 paper sand between.

When patch is level with surrounding areas,  apply refresher coats overall. Allow 2 days to cure. Pray for no rain.



CLEANING YOUR TEAK

Before teak can be given any coating, it must be completely clean. Your expensive teak is literally dissolved by strong cleaners, so always use the mildest cleaner that does the job. A 75/25 mixture of liquid laundry detergent (such as Wisk) and chlorine bleach may be adequate, perhaps boosted with TSP (trisodium phosphate).

Apply this mixture with a stiff brush, scrubbing lightly with the grain. Leave it on the wood for several minutes to give the detergent time to suspend the dirt and the bleach time to lighten the wood, then rinse the wood thoroughly, brushing it to clear the grain.

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THE BEST WAY TO CARE FOR YOUR AIRTEAK

Exterior Teak trim – Cap Rails, Toe Rails,
Transoms


Wax and buff with the rest of the boat to keep a elegant brilliant shine.
























TO KEEP FINISH BRIGHT
ON AIRTEAK


Wax and buff with the rest of the boat to keep a elegant brilliant shine. Never varnish.



























REPAIRS TO AIRTEAK


AirTeak is 100% water tight even when damaged. So relax keep cruising and give us a call for repair touch up the next time you haul the boat out. No rush.














CLEANING YOUR AIRTEAK




SPRAY IT DOWN WITH SOAP AND WATER.

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